Nieudany atak szczytowy Denisa Urubki. Odwrót z Broad Peaku [FOTO]

Denis Urubko ma za sobą nieudany atak szczytowy na Broad Peak (8051 m). Z powodu fatalnych warunków atmosferycznych himalaista wraz z zespołem postanowili zawrócić na wysokości 7650 metrów.

Urubko bezpiecznie zszedł do obozu trzeciego, a stamtąd planuje kolejne zejście, tym razem do bazy głównej. Niewykluczone, że tej zimy jeszcze raz spróbuje zaatakować Broad Peak.

Broad Peak to jeden z dziesięciu ośmiotysięczników (na 13), które zimą jako pierwsi zdobyli Polacy. 5 marca 2013 roku na szczycie stanęli Adam Bielecki, Artur Małek, Tomasz Kowalski i Maciej Berbeka. Dwaj ostatni zginęli podczas zejścia.

Urubko uważa jednak, że prawdziwa zima w Himalajach trwa od 1 grudnia do końca lutego, dlatego nie uznaje wejścia polskiej wyprawy za zimową. Z tego samego powodu dwa lata temu postanowił odłączyć się od polskiego zespołu i samotnie zaatakować K2. Bezskutecznie.

Wraz z Denisem Urubko Broad Peak próbują zdobyć Kanadyjczyk Don Bowie i Lotta Hintsa, była miss Finlandii.

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UPDATE: Broad Peak / K2 Winter Expedition. We are all still in base camp waiting out a spell of bad weather. In the interim, here is an image of our Camp 1. Currenty our tents are in Camp 2 – we don't leave them pitched because there is a good chance the high winds would damage them, or worse. It's not like summer when you leave your sleeping bags and food and gear in the high camps and then return to it later. Except for the tents, we carry everything down the mountain each time we leave, then carry it all back up the next time we climb. Welcome to winter 8000 meter style. #BPK2winter – – – -@mountainhardwear – – -#climbinglife #lifeathighaltitude #mountains #tents #camp #getoutside #climbing #alpinizm #winter #camping #expedition

A post shared by Don Bowie (@donbowie) on Jan 26, 2020 at 7:09am PST

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Update- Broad Peak / K2 Winter Expedition: Denis Urubko and I made a sprint yesterday, climbing from base camp at 4850m elevation to 6840m -then doing some work there- then climbing back down to base camp. It was a long day with 2000 meters vertical climbing (and then descending) but when you get a few hours of good weather in the forecast, sometimes you need to launch a marathon day to get a little work done. We pushed our existing high point up 100m vertical to just below Camp 3 before getting chased off the face by hurricane winds and low temps. Now back in base camp waiting the next weather window. #BPK2winter – – – – #denisurubko #alpineclimb #winter #speedclimb #highaltitude #noteverest #mountain.planet #iceclimbing #frontpoints #k2 @acerbissport @kayland_official @camp1889

A post shared by Don Bowie (@donbowie) on Jan 24, 2020 at 7:24am PST

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#BPK2winter not much of an update ❄ Yesterday me and @donbowie went in search of the route to the Babanov/Affansiev ridge through the glacier and while it was definitely an adventure, we were blocked by huge crevasses and ice walls wherever we went. So after three hours we came back and this is pretty much what always happens upon return: I spread out my gear in front of the tent to store it in drums. All our snacks were still intact too. The @foodin functional chocolate, chocolate covered dried strawberries and collagen protein bars are my faves. Energy, antioxidants and probiotics, all essential here. The Biohacker's chocolate bar has also maca, cordyceps and beetroot to boost your performance. Just thought you guys might wanna know the things I love to eat when I climb and explore :D Photo by @donbowie #highaltitude #winterexpedition #sharinghappiness #foodin #mtnchicks #sheadventures #choosemountains #karitraa

A post shared by Lotta Hintsa (@lottahintsa) on Jan 27, 2020 at 6:44am PST

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#BPK2winter update❄ Yesterday we came down to BC after spending 1 night in Camp 1 and 2 nights in C2 and I have to say I'm already incredibly proud of our team! There is a reason why people don't climb in the winter, the conditions are brutal!! You're constantly either breaking trail in waist-deep snow, trying not to trigger avalanches, or climbing steep, blue ice, where one mistake might mean you're going waaaay down, probably in five pieces. And that's only (part of) the climbing, not even mentioning the camping in crazy conditions (I'll do another post about that) or the work that goes into preparation. So making it to camp 2 on Broad Peak in winter is so cool! (Here I also need to mention that the guys once again started the work of cutting out ropes from under the ice between C2&3. I salute them!) Now we wait out the weather again and see what opportunities it brings… Picture from our slippery descent below C2 yesterday by @donbowie #broadpeak #winterexpedition #womenwhoclimb #adventuretime #blueice #winterclimbing #Pakistan #karakoram

A post shared by Lotta Hintsa (@lottahintsa) on Jan 20, 2020 at 5:17am PST

Znów heroiczna walka o przetrwanie w Himalajach! Simone Moro był o włos od śmierci [FOTO]